Rabindra : Egyptian Dream

Egyptian Dream

(This is just a continuation of my last blog " the late comer" . Those who did not have enough time to read it, just read this summary:

As a student of the ISS, the Hague, we were visiting some of the important international institutions in the Switzerland. After completion of our study visit, I went Paris. In the meantime, I decided to visit Egypt, the land of Pharaoh. )

Promise to Visit an Unknown Land

When I was an 8th grader, I had promised that one day I would visit to the Nile river and the pyramids of the Egypt. I made this promise in front of my teacher and classmates. At that time, the promise merely seemed a childhood fantasy, later, it proved to be a mysterious truth.

It was a beginning year of 80s. In those days, the general knowledge about the world was confined to some particular books, and even those books were far from our access. Alas! the internet was not invented yet. However, I was a little bit fortunate because, I belonged to somehow educated family of that contemporary society. Therefore, I could gather some knowledge by listening to some conversations and sometime debates among my elder brothers and father. Those conversations were used to be focused on the contemporary world affairs, national and international politics, heros and villains of modern and ancient centuries. Therefore, since my childhood, my mini brain developed a profound interest in History.

Unfortunately, because the education board had decided to exclude the history subject from mandatory curriculum in the high school. As a result, one could not choose history and science both at once. Apparently, I had to go with the science leaving behind my beloved subject.

I still freshly remember the history class when my teacher was teaching about Egyptian Civilization. He was an elderly teacher from India. At that time, educated human resources were scarce in Nepal. Many educated people from India were always welcomed to work in the technical fields including education. Musafir Jha used to teach history subject to us. He used to teach history just like a grand father telling a story to his children. The day he started the course by saying “Human story will not be complete if we forget the civilization grown on the bank of the Nile River”.

"Nile? It does not make me any sense! Why a river has such a peculiar name?" I wondered and quickly interrupted the class by raising silly questions, “Where is the Nile, sir? How big is it? Is it bigger than our Baghmati?”

My innocent question made some of my classmates burst into a laugh. The teacher was calm as usual and addressing me as a "Little pharaoh" ,commanded me to be patient and listen what he was saying. Teacher’s command made my face reddened with embarrassment.

Being a resident of Sarlahi, the Baghmati River was the biggest and longest that I have ever seen. Swimming in its sharp current and diving into it was an adventurous dream of every students of my age. Only two students in my class were able to do so and therefore they were hero among all of us.

The teacher came to my question by explaining about the Nile. “Nile is the longest river in the world which flows through many African countries. Most part of this river flows through Egypt” He said turning his head directly toward me . The teacher further talked about the very interesting things around the Egypt. He talked about Pharaohs, mummy, pyramids, rid plants and so on. He also explained about the interesting daily life and activities of the people of ancient time. They possessed wonderful skill to preserve dead body by mummifying it. Even today, we could see the dead body which had been preserved since 30000 years ago. They build prism like super structures that even the modern human being could not make. The teacher further told that they also plough farm using animals. They used a grinder to make corn-dough. They also make beer which was a part of their daily meal. It was so fascinating to listen about the miracle deeds and lifestyle of those ancient people.

That very day, I vowed that I would visit this dreamland once in my lifetime. ( Here I now remembered Joseph Conrad's promise in the Heart of darkness I would put my finger on it and say, when I grow up, I will go there!. ) The teacher was happy to hear my promise. He was really nice and he used to support every effort i put on my study. He blessed me putting his hand on my head. He further said," If you have a dream in your heart, you certainly get some ways out to get there."

Our teacher Musafir also possessed some kind of mysterious power on him. As he was telling some story about the vastness of pyramids, he began to tremble and sat down laying his head on the table. Whenever something wrong happened on the idol of the god (There was a small temple of Phuljor Baba next to the school) or some good or bad spirit travel nearby him, Musafir sir began to tremble. Believe it or not, it was a fact, and it was the event frequently happened in front of us. We all students were quite familiar with this fact. When such incident happens, usually we student rush to the temple, clean around it and light some incense. Then Musafir sir used to come back in normal situation.

A visit to Dan Haag

It had been almost 16 years since I had made promise in front of my history teacher. Tons of waters had already flown in the Nile and Bagmati. I was now a grown up civil servant of the Government of Nepal. I would very rarely remembered the “Promise” but I was sure that was not going to be fulfilled. Still I had not forgot the word of my teacher at the moment when I made that promise- " If you have a dream in your heart, you certainly get some ways out to get there." I had no idea how it works!

Very surprisingly, my office decided me to send Netherland to do post graduation courses. Obviously, I was very happy by the decision. At the same time, I began to think whether or not this journey had any connection with my childhood promise.

That day, I came back to home very late. I had to start preparation for the journey to the Europe. Within a week, I got all required travel documents as well as plane ticket too. My shoppings for the stay of overseas was also done. In those days, a Dutch Airlines, called Transavia was in service from kathmandu to Amsterdam. I flew on this airplane on 25th of December 1999.

On the way, the plane made a brief fuel stop in Bahrain airport. It hardly take 45 minutes to fill up fuel and then it took off facing toward Europe. The television screen set on the plane provided all passengers about the ground location over where we were flying. For me it was so much fascinating and I began to verify the screen's information by watching ground through the window. It was almost evening time, The weather was very clear and I could see cars moving in the street of Tehran. Then after, our plane flew over Turkish airspace, however, I could not spot Ankara which I wanted to see. But I was able to see the vast Black Sea. Then as soon as the plane was flying over the air space of Bucharest of Romania, the ground visibility became so deem that I could not see any place in the ground any more. Then I shut the window and slept. After a while, a flight attendant woke me up and offered some food. No sooner had I finished eating, we are told we are approaching to the destination. At the time when our plane landed on the Schiphol airport at Amsterdam, it was 2:45am. So I arrived to the Netherlands safely.

Now I realized how would Alice first feel when she encountered the wonder land. The difference is clear. Alice arrived in the wonderland by mistake but I had a purpose! In this wonderland, for me, everywhere everything look strange and fascinating!

First , I got my luggage and I was looking for a place to buy a train ticket to go to the Den Haag. Although there was automatic vending machine to get a train ticket, I was reluctant to use it because I was really unfamiliar with those machine things. So I asked a passing by lady to help me to get a ticket. She agreed to help me, however, she told me that the machine won’t accept US money. Thus I need change my US money into Dutch money - the Guilder. She also suggest me to go to the money changer and then she would help me. Even in this odd early hours, the money changer was there! If I remember correctly, I changed $50.00 and got fl90.00. I came back running and gave her all money that I got from the money changer. She just used fl16.00 to get a ticket and gave me all returns.. Now she already knew I am coming from different culture. So instead of showing me the direction of railway station, she took me to the down stair of the airport from where I was supposed to get on the train. I did not know how I should express gratitude to the lady. I just said thank you !

I get on the train carrying a huge suitcase and carryon bag. The train was not a train which I had thought about. It was like an airplane. So neat and clean. Almost all seats were vacant in my boggy. The train started and run very smoothly. Through the window, I was able to see European landscape which I had seen on some postcards in Nepal . However, in the winter time, everything look like shivering with the cold. After observing these picturesque view, I asked myself if I was coming from the same planet? I was not getting proper answer to this question. I was also thinking about my friends and relatives who had never visited foreign country. Last night's travel on the jet and the effect of the warmth inside the train, made me sleep.

When I woke up I was in "Den Haag Central". I get out of the train. And entered into a big exit hall. When I approached near the gate it opened automatically. I liked it very much. As per the instruction given by the Institute, I went outside to see if there were any taxi. I found one and asked him to take me to the following address:

Kortenaerkade 12,

2518 AX Den Haag, Netherlands

I get in the taxi. I was surprised to see a small idol of Ganesh in the front dashboard of the taxi and also felt some soothing fragrances of incense. Further, a very low volume of a sound of popular Hindu aarati song-"Jaya jagadisha hare " was coming out of the car's record player. Then I could not stop myself.

"Are you from India," I asked.

"Not actually, " answered the taxi driver.

"The things you are using in this car are so close to my culture. I am pretty sure you are not from Nepal. You said you are not from India. You put me in odd situation." I just talked and did not ask any more question.

" Actually you are right sir, we are descendent from India. Our grandfathers or even great grandfathers were migrated to Suriname from India long ago, probably at the last decades of 19th century. The Surinam was under the colony of the Dutch government. In 1975 the country got independence from the Netherland. At that time some people including my family chose to come to reside here. Out of the Hague's 4 million population , our population is about 45,000." He explained me about this interesting Dutch demographic Structure.

“In the first day, you gave me a lot of information about a country where I am coming to pursue my higher education. You became my first teacher by revealing such a interesting fact about the dutch society”, I thanked him.

He smiled and said, "Here we are! this is the place!" The car was pulled over near a big building's grand gate. It was the building where I was enrolled to get my post-graduation.

"I get out of the car took my luggage. And paid fl25.00 to the taxi.

I arrived just in front of the Institute’s main building. The building stood just next to the main road. A big door of the building was 6 step far from where I was standing. But it was locked. There I saw a small notice on a piece of paper. Which says:

Welcome to the Institute of Social Studies!

· Just proceed few steps south

· Turn right to cross the street.

· Now you are at the Dorus Rijkersplein (“Dorus”).

· Give buzz to room #284.

· Somebody will come to receive you!

I was more than happy. I followed the instruction. Two Nepali guys who had been studying there came down to receive me! They show my room at the third floor. It was # 308. The hostel was a quite modern residence often called “Dorus”. It is located right at the back of the ISS building. This residence had a capacity to accommodate 125 single rooms and 10 double rooms (primarily intended for couples). All rooms have their own bathroom and share the kitchen with 5-8 rooms. There was a common room where students could watch TV and relax while doing a laundry.

I entered into my room, threw my luggage and tossed my body on the bed. I was so tired by the long journey that I quickly get slept. I woke up only when my Nepali friends came to call me for a lunch. They also took me to a nearing supermarket called Konmar. I am so sorry to hear that this supermarket was closed in 2008. The supermarket was huge. You can buy there almost everything you needed. In 2000, Europeans were prepared for the use of unified currency - the Euro but it was not yet in circulation. However, physical payments could only be made in guilder, as no euro coins or banknotes were available. In order to make people familiarized, the price tag on each stuff posted in Guilder and in Euro too.

I arrived Netherlands 7 days before the formal class starts. The institute had a tradition to organize a sightseeing program to mix up the international student and make them familiar to the Dutch culture. This year sightseeing program was at the Rotterdam. Rotterdam is a city famous for Dutch harbor . We went to see the north sea on a boat. Since I had never seen the sea in my life, watching giant ships and boats were really exiting. I began to think how my poor landlocked country is surviving without such a very necessary equipment. On the other side, a yellow crane spreading its monstrous hand to lift shipping containers to send somewhere! It seemed everything that I was seeing is new and amazing! The boat was double decker. There were other tourist on the top deck. When I was entering into the boat I found a wallet on the floor which was loaded with money and many cards. I gave it to the driver and ask help to give back to the right person. The driver announced from a speaker this way, " Hi, everybody! please put your hand in your pocket. If you have your wallet in it, you are lucky! If you did not find, I can help you!!" thank you! we all laughed. Within a second, a guy came down from upper deck hastily. In the chilly day on December, he was sweating. He got the wallet and took long breath. He thanked the driver but the driver pointed at me and told, " not me thank this guy who found it". Then he turned toward me and greeted me by nodding his head. He was slim and unlike other Dutch people, he was in a formal dress. He look like an Indian but his eyes were blue. He wanted me to give some money as a reward but I denied. He gave me a visiting card and asked me to come up with him. I agreed. We travelled together on the boat. We introduced each other. He was an Egyptian business man. According to him, he won some business stores in the Rotterdam too. Therefore he used to travel frequently here. His name was Youssef. The wallet was very important to him because his wife gave him as a present in his previous birth day. He admired his wife as she was the most beautiful woman of this planet.

"Do you have kids, too?, " I asked.

He did not reply and pretended as if he was not listening to me. He just turned his head toward far horizon and after a moment he said, " Do you know if you travel straight on this sea, you will reach England very soon" He was pointing south-west side of the sea. There were fleets of ship and cruise boats seen on the sea. I realized that he wanted to twist the subject matter of our talk. We talked a lot while we were in boat. I also expressed my desire to visit Cairo. He assured me if I went to visit there, he will sponsor all the cost over there. I thanked him for his kind words. At that time I did not have planned to go to Egypt.

I was watching sea birds which are following us in a group. it reminded me Coleridge's Ancient Mariner and the albatross. This memory reminded me :

Water, water, everywhere,

And all the boards did shrink;

Water, water, everywhere,

Nor any drop to drink.

My heart was filled with some poetic touch. I wrote a poem back at the dorm that night. It was in Nepali:

After travelling a couple of hours in the boat we were brought back to the dock. I said to Youssef goodbye and promised to meet him in Cairo. I just wondered why I always made falls commitment when it comes to a matter related with Egypt.

It was three months passed since I arrived in the Europe. when one lives in a foreign country alone, it was very hard to be happy always. That day, I was remembering home, my relatives and friends. I was feeling alone and sad because I was sick. I remembered my mother. how she used to be worried when I was getting sick at home. How my father rushed to Bazaar to buy medicine. Now I was alone in this foreign land and if I got fainted or died nobody knows in time. I was scared and felt pity to myself and my miserable situation. I began to weep. I heard a knock on the door. I wiped my tears and opened the door. Saleem was standing there! Saleem was from Pakistan. He was also a student who came to study in the same institute. He knew I was sick and just came to see me. He was a very nice guy. He help me to lay down on the bed and told me a very memorable word. "Gyanendra! when you feel alone and see nobody to take care of you, specially at the time when you are sick, just believe the fact that the Merciful Allah is taking care of you. Just talk with Him, explain your pain. I am pretty sure he will listen you". I thanked him for his kind words and a nice cup of tea made by him. He told me that he would come back to visit me again and that time I would be fully recovered.He left me. Again the sadness prevailed in the room, I continued to cry. I don't know why I was remembering my mother very much that day although she already passed away 2 years ago! I wanted to call Nepal but I was not sure to whom should call? I had a big family, 4 brothers and 5 sisters. However it had been very hard to pick one to call. In this mentally turmoil situation, I was thinking a lot of nonsense trifle things and when did I fall asleep I did not know. When I woke up I found myself in very fresh condition. I thanked Saleem for his nice words. I also thanked his merciful Allah!

Still my heart was longing to talk with someone at home. After my parent's untimely death, there was not such a place where I could call Home. I didn't know why my inner being pushed me to call to my brother. I called him from my dorm using a scratch phone card. He was surprise by my call. We talked a lot. Among other things, he said he had been to Sagarnath, first time since our parent passed away.

"Really! how was the home? Did you go inside it?", I asked.

" Oh, dear! our home became deserted nest of birds. How the place has been changed within very short time and within the sight of my eyes. The compound of Sailabaje’s home was unexpectedly melancholy. The front yard look like a forest of weeds. Those areas were always kept neat and clean by Sailibajai With the help of sharp khurpi. With her untiring enthusiasm, she used to scrub the ground. One would never thought looking at it now that there had ever been a time when many village folks gathered under the big Pipal tree which stood just in front of the house to watch us celebrating the Dashain Festival." His vocal stopped after that words."

Picture: Sagar Dhakal

My heart numbed when I come to recall those days at Sagarnath. I closed my eyes, I could see it all as in front of me. I began to cry!!

"This is a reality of life," I answered slightly sobbing.

" Do you know I went to visit our school too. None of the teachers who used to teach us was there. Musafir's son Durgananda was now head master at the school."

Since long time I had not heard Musafir's Name. " Hey, where is Musafir sir?" a spark emerged in my mind and turned into the fire of memory.

"Sadly, he was in comma and, generally, he does not recognize anybody who visit him. Fortunately, he recognized me! He was also asking about you. When I told him you are now in Europe, he wanted to tell something but he could not. I saw some tears issuing from his eyes." My brother explained my favorite teacher's situation.

He further said, “ Space remains the same but time changes fast! So if you want to see the same thing after sometime, you have to unwind the time too. Which was not possible!”

I did not understand what he wanted to say. My call time finished and I hang up the phone.

In the meantime, I remembered the promise I made in front of Musafir. I came back to my room. That night I could not sleep well. Lots of characters in my past days, came up to my mind. My father, my mother, Musafir sir, my friends all were laughing at me and saying something to me. I woke up and drink a glass of water. Again tried to sleep. I was traveling to Scheveningen and I saw Musafir walking along the beach. I really surprised by seeing him in the Netherland. Just a day ago, my brother said he was in comma and could not even stand up. Now he was walking in the sea beach, here in the Netherland! Impossible but it was true ! It was happening in front of my eyes. I followed him and called him, "sir!". He turned toward me, smiled and said in a very awkward voice," Never forget your promise, little pharaoh!" He stared at me as if he was watching my bones inside my body with his mysterious X-ray powered eyes. He continued ," If you have a dream you also have some way out to get there." I scared and came out off the horrific nightmare. My dress were fully wetted with sweat and I feel my throat dried up and woke up from my bed and again drank some water.

The next day, I was returning from the college, I checked my locker and mailbox. I was surprised to see a letter in my locker. Usually nobody send me a letter. Who could be this? The sender's name was not familiar to me. I opened the letter. Oh! It was Youssef. In the letter, beside other things, he had expressed his curiosity about my proposed visit to Egypt. He further said about his wife and children. In the time when I met him at Rotterdam It was just 1 month since his wife passed away. At that time he was not in position to explain this all. So he could not talk about it. I was feeling so sorry. I answered him expressing my deep condolence. I also assured him that if I planned to visit Cairo, I would certainly let him know.

Days in the Netherlands passed slowly in the winter. I guess I hardly saw a single sunny day in this winter. Now It was a first week of May. all trees which seemed already died in winter, now yielding green leaves. Not only on the tree but also in the street life was seemed to be returning. People are nicely dressed up and moving here and there. City center was busy. streets and parks were decorated with varieties of lovely tulips. It looked very colorful. In the classroom, our program coordinator announced the date of our study visit to Switzerland. From may 21st to June 1st we were supposed to visit various international institutions situated in the Swiss city of Geneva. I was very happy with this opportunity to travel switzerland but the date was really disappointing. When I left Nepal, to have higher education in the Netherlands, I told my friends to watch live Euro cup football which was going to be held that year in the Netherlands. Very sadly, the day when final game was to be held, we must be in Switzerland. Hence my plan to watch euro cup final game at the famous Dutch city Rotterdam was shattered.

Finally, deeply awaited day was approaching! Tomorrow is the day when we were supposed to go to Geneva, Switzerland. The faculty of International Law of our Institute organized a study visit to its students, to make them familiarizing to the various International Organizations situated in Geneva.

Although geographically Switzerland lies almost in the center of Europe, it is not an EU member. So my Sanguine visa of the Netherland does not work to enter the country. Not only me but many of us in our class, were from outside the Europe and therefore we need to get Swiss Visa to enter into the Swiss territory. As this matter was related with education, the Institute took care of it and we were handed over our passport with the sticker of Swiss Visa. So everything was set up.

In the evening, an idea came up to my mind. Why not I go to visit to egypt after we finished our study visit in switzerland? I decided to talk with my coordinator. I explained all my interest to visit Cairo. She also gave her approval and encouraged me to visit the place where I wanted to visit since my childhood. She helped me to find out address of the Egyptian embassy in the Hague. It was in a place called Badhuisweg which was close to the Scheveningen. The other day, It took me 24 minutes to reach the place by the tram. I got an egyptian visa to travel to Cairo. I called Youseff about my arrival in cairo rightway. He was happily expressed his willingness to receive me there.

The bus would leave from the front yard of the Institute's building tomorrow at about 6.30 am. Therefore, we all are supposed to be there at 6:00. Our program coordinator also handed each of us a leaflet of bus itinerary. It shows we are traveling almost 900KM from The Hague to Geneva. And the travel time will be approximately 10 -11hrs. But while returning, my plan was different. I would spend one day in Paris and then go to Cairo to see the world famous pyramids. I had to get approval from my department for being absent for four days. Thanks to student affair officer he helped me to expedite my application. So from Geneva I was coming back to Paris and stay there one night. Then I would fly to Cairo to see the land of the pharaoh. I was excited to see Eiffel Tower in Paris but even more excited to see the impressions of the days of the pharaoh- the pyramids in Cairo.

It was the year of new millennia 2000. After completing the study visit, my classmates were busy to buy souvenir and packing up their belongings. returning to Hague. However, I was taking this opportunity to travel to visit the beautiful city Paris and also fulfill my promise by visiting the land of Pharaoh. I took a train from Geneva to Paris. Before this, my program coordinator generously helped me to book a room for me at a moderate hostel in Paris. The hostel was Le Village Hostel in Montmartre. And the address was : 20 Rue d'Orsel, 75018 Paris, France. It was about 30 km far from the Charles de Gaulle Airport and 7 km from Paris Gare de Lyon Train Station. It was not far from Centrum too.We spent more than 10 days in Geneva at a Hotel called Bernina (Place de Cornavin 22, 1201 Genève, Switzerland)

The last day in Geneva, we all gathered to have a dinner together. We decided to try Fondue. Fondue is a famous Swiss dish of melted cheese served in a communal pot over a chafing stand heated with a candle or spirit lamp and eaten by dipping long-stemmed forks with bread into the cheese. Now "fondue" has been generalized to other dishes in which a food is dipped into a communal pot of liquid kept hot in a fondue pot.

We also try some champagne and was kind of intoxicated. Although we were having a good time, I have to leave my hotel at 8:30 to catch up train from Geneva to Paris at 10: 30 pm. I said goodbye to my teachers and friends and promised to meet them in the Hague very soon. As my travel was not that much longer, I sent my suitcase to the Hague with my friend. Just a light backpack was enough!

In France:

I arrived Paris central station at about 8.am in the morning. I directly went to my hostel. The receptionist told me it was too early to check in. I just sat down on a couch in the lobby. I picked up a newspaper which was on the coffee table. I did not understand any thing except the picture that published victory of france on the Euro 2000.

For a people like me Paris means Eiffel tower, Louvre Museum, Da Vinci's Mona Lisa and Sean River. Besides being anxious to visit the Eiffel tower, there were some other particular places of interest in the street of Paris. One of these place is the Foyot restaurant. Foyot was a famous restaurant in Paris, located just across the way from the Senate building. Many senators and businessmen came daily there to taste the splendid Foyot cuisine. Foyot was important for me not because it always had VIP customers, but it was the place described by the famous short story writer Somerset Maugham. It was a place where his famous "Luncheon" happened. In his beginning days of writing, he got flattered by a cunning lady who, wanted to meet him in a famous Foyot restaurant in Paris. Afterwards, it was revealed that she was not his admirer but she just wanted to fill her stomach by using money from young writer's purse. As a result, the writer was left in a measurable condition for a whole month. Since my college day, the restaurant was engraved in my heart. (I have posted this story in this blog under the separate topic of "the Luncheon" , if you have interest, please give a look)

Paris also reminded me the story of French revolution from where human values like freedom, equality and fraternity were spread all around the world. I also remembered the story narrated by famous Victorian novelist Charles Dickens in his famous book -"A tale of two cities".

"I don't have time to visit these all places in two days !" I grasped.

"Why I am wasting my time by waiting here? "

" I need to go" so I decided to go. I ordered a black coffee in order to refresh myself. I grabbed some brochures which informed me about the transport system and map of Paris. I put my bag in a locker and set for the Centrum.

So I reached the Centrum. Aesthetic and artistic city of Paris was smiling more adorably than described by Dr Taranath Sharma in my tenth grade book. The day when I was in Paris, the streets were beautifully decorated and people were gathering in street in a jolly mood. The city looked full of folks with festive mood because of two major events happening in the France.

France had a tradition of organizing Cycle race called Tour de France. In the year 2000, it was 87th edition of the game. The tour started from the French city called Futuroscope and was supposed to cover 3663 km. the race was already started in 1st July and I was there on 5th. Last year an American cyclist called Lance Armstrong won the race and this year he was again taking part in it. The picture of participants were displayed in the streets.

The other important events was that France snatched Euro cup football Championship this year. The final of Euro 2000 was played on 2nd July in Rotterdam, Netherlands. I really missed it. France won the match, defeating Italy 2–1. The road in front of arc de triomphe, was packed with the supporter of the players. A small boy came near to me and said, "nous avons gagné, nous sommes le héros" ( we won, we are the hero) I replied in broken french, "Oui, tu l'es" ( yes, you are). In order to join in their happiness, I requested a passerby to take my picture with them.

I also went to visit Louvre museum where I wanted to see picture of Mona Lisa. It was huge museum and one cannot see all things within a day. I just wanted to see the Mona Lisa. After seeing the picture of Mona Lisa, I realized I didn't have enough power to judge an art because I did not like the portrait which had been admired by many people in the world. I did not spent more time there.

I went to see famous icon of the Paris- the Eiffel tower. The weather was nice that day. The Eiffel tower area was crowded with the tourists. I waited in the line more than a hour to get a ticket to go up to the top of it. I took some picture of famous Seine river from the top of the tower.

Eifel with millennia logo

The places that I highly gave priority, gave me a blow of disappointment! My fantasy that I carried since my college days to visit Foyot restaurant, was shattered by the news that It was torn down to enlarge the street! I was really shocked.

Then I set my mind to see a place where famous prison of Bastille located. I imagined how people had stormed into the then infamous prison to set free their comrades. Although the Bastille remained an important symbol for the French Republican movement, it was also demolished long ago claiming it as an icons of the despotism. Almost nothing is left of the Bastille except some remains of its stone foundation that were relocated to the side of the Boulevard Henri IV.

Being very tired I returned to my hostel very late. I laid my exhausted body in the bumpy bed.

In Egypt

When the Egyptian airlines took off from the Charles de Gaulle Airport, it was already 10:00am. The flight attendant informed us there was no time different between Paris and Cairo. So we need not to be worry about setting up our wrist watch. They also informed us that we will be landing there in Cairo after approximately 5 hours flight. I was very excited as well as worried too. Why I was worried I did not even know actually!

I saw around the plane, most of the passengers' appearance, particularly skin color, was resembled with me. An Arabian guy was sitting beside me. Even he thought me to be Arabian. He smiled at me and asked asked ," Kayfa Haaluka?" ( how are you? ) I said," anaa laa ’atakallam al- xarabiyya jayyidan.( I don't speak Arabic very well), I am good, I am from Nepal, I understand only few words in Arabic. I just learned very little useful Arabic words thinking that it might help me while my stay in Cairo. " You exactly look like Arabian," he said it in very good English. After knowing I am from Nepal, he also said his father had visited Nepal and said it was a lovely country. I thanked him for admiring my country. The Egyptian air also served food which were suitable to my taste. I feel some kind of homely here in the plane. The plane landed at about 5:10pm at Cairo International Airport.

The airport was really huge than I had expected and nice too. Many interior parts like lounges and lobbies and every corners were decorated with symbols of Pyramid, icons of ancient Egyptian Gods, The Sphinx of Giza and so on. Also modern Islamic arts can be seen around the walls and ceiling of the airport. It was clean but rather crowded. From a first glimpse, I quickly figure out the vast difference of living standard among the people in the Egyptian society. On one particular time, very educated and uneducated, elegant dressed people in tie and suits and people in slippers and a galabeya (a traditional ankle-length garment) were walking side by side. Some higher class people carry laptops and cellphones which was the symbol of prosperity of the then society..

As per Yousef’s suggestion, one day was sufficient to see the pyramids in Cairo. So I planned to stay in Cairo just for 2 days only. In the moment while I was crossing the immigration and custom section, I remembered to get some Egyptian money. I saw a money changer counter in a right side of the pathway. I got some Egyptian Pounds (E£) against my US money. At that time the rate was $1.00= E£3.75. Then I used airport telephone to call Youssef. He was very happy but also kind of disappointed by listening my short stay in Cairo. He was at this time in Alexandria and he would not be able to meet me here in Egypt. However, he told me that he had already sent a car with a driver at the airport. I was and still now very much thankful to him.

I was walking in the long lobby, people were bustling and moving. In the crowd, I spotted a girl with a white dress and purple scarf around her neck. I feel like she was stared at me from the crowd. As I went forward she also moved forward in the crowd staring at me! I thought she was watching for some other person next to me. I did not care that much but I still remember her face which had some significant expression. I mean neither happy nor sad.

I joked to myself by saying just like a picture framed on a wall watches you wherever you go, similarly, in this age you feel any girl's eyes are watching you . But, unfortunately, this was an illusion.

I came out of the airport and saw a smiling guy holding my name in a card. Pretending to be more Arabian, I hugged him instead of shaking hands. "Welcome to al-kahira!," Masood said.

"Very Nice to meet you, I am Gyanendra" I introduced to him.

" I am Masood," he replied in lovely arabian accent.

“ As plane was in time, I guess, you did not have to wait a long time, did you?” I asked him while getting inside a very luxurious car.

“ Don’t worry about this sir, we are habitual of waiting very long time. One time, I had waited Yousuf’s friend for 11 hour. Compare to this, you are very fast.” He gave his introduction of being talkative by replying in this way.

I turned my head toward the airport , I still saw that girl staring at me. This time I was able to see her perfect knot of the hair. Who could she be ? I just tried to forget about this!

It was very hard to believe that I had been riding in a car on the road of Cairo. I had already arrived in my promised place-Egypt. However, people on the street were totally different then the people of the time of the Pharaoh. Modern Egyptians were moving here and there on the street. What surprised me is to see donkey wandering freely on the side of road. People were wandering aimlessly in the street and also group of young people gathered and having good time with each other. It also reminded me of the street of Kathmandu, particularly around Ratna Park and New Road.

In the street of Kathmandu, we were experienced with very congested traffic. Once, I had spent more than half an hour to cross just one Km distance. Here in Cairo, The traffic is more heavier than in Kathmandu. However, when I saw the way Masood was driving, it was really scary. The traffic was horrific. Unlike in Kathmandu, here they rarely slow down their vehicles. They did not care to run three lanes of the car where the road had made for two-lane traffic.

I asked Masood, “ how people are able to cross the road when the cars are still running?”

He laughed and said, "sir, here in Cairo, crossing the street is an art but you can also say science too".

He further said," the real Egyptian way to cross the road is just close your eyes and go. In Cairo, they call it "the closed-eye method".

Now It was clear he was more than a "talkative" and funny person. To give importance to his statement I just smiled and pretend to be wondered.

“ I really appreciate your sense of humour! “ , I said.

I thought the streets and buildings in Cairo was built in long ago. It looked an old city. When it was built, the builders were not aware enough to think about the current infrastructure would be developed and changed so rapidly. By the growing demand of the means of locomotion, the street is becoming narrower and narrower every day.

I was longing for having glimpse of Pyramids. Therefore I was watching out through the window of the car. I was scanning outside scene quietly and carefully. However, the taxi driver Mashood was “ more than a crazy parrot “ and he did not likely stop talking.

"Cannot we see pyramids on the way?" I asked Masood.

"Sir, whoever comes to visit Cairo, they excited only about Pyramids. Thus, they miss other important things to visit in Cairo. There are lot of other important things to see and enjoy in Egypt.

" He further said, "It is night time and we are little bit other side of the pyramid so we cannot see from here. We will see all pyramid tomorrow, sir."

" By the way, are you married, sir?", Mashood asked.

"Not yet", I answered.

"Very good," he said.

"Why?"

He continued conversation by saying " Listen sir, Merciful Allah had given us a human life to enjoy. If anybody spends such a precious life outside the Egypt, it would be worthless."

He further said, "Now, forget about living at hotel. Find a suitable girl here get married with her and be settled forever!"

I did not say anything.

"Don't you think so?" he turned his face toward me to get my response while driving in the busy road of the Egypt.

Now I feel like I have to say something, " Mashood! I am coming here from a place which is very far. I am totally unaware of the culture, religion, tradition of this place. Above all, I don't know the local language. Again I don't have any source of regular income. In such situation who will like me and be ready to marry with me? And you are asking me to settle here is not so funny?

"Sir, just say yes to my proposal the whole responsibility to decide about your life goes to the Merciful Allah. Don't you believe on Him?"

" Yes, I believe on him but at the same time, I do not want to give unnecessary burden to the Allah."

He laughed and said ,"you are very clever sir, it was so nice to have conversation with you, here we are now." He parked the car inside the compound of Hotel Arabia where I was supposed to stay for 2 days. It was already 5 pm local time, when I reached hotel Arabia.

Mashood asked," what time I should come to catch you, tomorrow, sir ?"

" 8:00 will be fine", I said. He hugged me and said good bye. I tried to give him some money as a tip. He denied outright by saying, "I surely accept if you were another person but you are Yousuf's friend , it means you are my family's friend. I cannot do that.". His remark compelled me to think about the closeness of culture between them and us. In response, I just smiled and waved my hand and said good night.

The hotel was a moderate. However, it was located on the heart of Cairo. It was just 16 miles away from the International Airport. Malek El-Saleh Metro Station was a 15-minute walk from the hotel. One can reach the famous Tahrir Square only after three stop of public bus. The accommodation offered by this hotel was spacious and nice too. Most rooms offer views of the Nile and some are equipped with a balcony. Unfortunately, I did not have both. My room neither had a view of Nile nor there was a balcony. I went to the counter to check myself in. The counter person surprised me by offering upgrade the room in the same price. There was no question of disagreeing. I just expressed many thanks for that. Now I could enjoy the view of Nile sitting on the balcony.

The Hotel had a very nice restaurant too. The best dinner item I liked at Arabia’s restaurant was its goat meat dish. The dish comprises of goat meat, flat Naan like bread and salted rice. I chose that menu for this night. It was already 7 pm. I thought it would be nice to go to see some nearest place if possible. Then I asked the person at the reception about security around the area and possibility of traveling nearby places. The person told me that there was no security threat and I can go to the Tahrir Square by public bus. So I took a map and also get his oral directions and went to see the Square. I reached there within 20 minutes The Tahrir (Liberation) Square was really a big square. By the time I reach there was 8:00 pm but still many people were strolling around it. The place was lively. Many street Khosary seller were still busy to serve their customers. Koshary was a uniquely Egyptian dish. It was more than Chana Chatpate found in the street of Nepal and India. But it was improved one. It’s a mixture of rice, macaroni, spaghetti, lentils, and chickpeas, all covered with a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions. in fact, the street food in Cairo is better and cheaper than any of the restaurant food I had while I was there.

On the center of the Tahrir Square, there was a big attractive water fountain. Later I knew the designer dreamt this place to be built in the same manner as Paris on the bank of the Nile . Many street vendors were selling street food which looks delicious. It reminded me the street of north Indian cities. Unfortunately, I was not in a position to eat anything because I was full. I went to the nearest bus stop getting back to the hotel. The bus was less crowded and I can see outside through the window. I saw a girl in ancient Egyptian attire walking in the street. I was so surprised. I wish to take a picture with her but it was impossible. I saw she was waving her hand toward me! As a fun, I also waive back but the bus passed her very fast. I thought there might be some people wearing ancient attire and moving around the city for fun. So I did not care her that much. When I reached the hotel it was about 10:30pm

I came out to the balcony from where I can see the Nile. In the dark night, It was not very clear but I can see reflections of lights of those tall buildings which were stood in the bank of the river. Guests of the hotel were still enjoying soothing Arabian music played in a corner of the restaurant. The smell of fresh fish and pizzas was tempting. But I was happy to seat on a chair trying to admire views of the Nile. However, I was not that much happy to see this place. I was just thinking how it would look like 35000 years ago? There were the big Nile and a small village full of splendid culture and unique rituals. I also remembered my 8th-grade class when I promised to come here. I wish I could go back to the class and say, "Hey! I already visited the Nile, it is huge! bigger than Bagmati !!". I don't know why I felt tears coming out of my eyes. After seeing big skyscrapers on the bank of the Nile, I feel, we homo sapiens only care about ourselves, not the human heritage. Are we creator or destroyer ? Bramha or Mahadeva? Once my brother had told me space remains the same but time changes fast! Now I saw both time and space changed !

I was very tired and decided to go to bed. I left the curtain open toward the Nile side. I tried to sleep but could not. I saw my wrist watch it was already 1:00am. I struggled to sleep turning and tossing myself. I had in vain asked Mashood to come at 8:00 am tomorrow! I should have asked him to come at 10:00 or later! Probably I slept at 1:30am.

Then, after a profound moment passed, all of the sudden I heard a strange noise with a coarse long sound - Wake up!! Wake up!! I tried to wake up but could not then I heard a song that I did not understand that much. But I listen so repeatedly that I can remember:

Wake up, oh stranger! The Nile welcomes you!!

Wake up, oh stranger! I am here to help you!!

Blessed by the Neptune but still behave strange

You flow in same way as if there is no change

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

Beholding endless water draining into the sea everyday

In order to find the source, my upset soul seeks a way

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

My deep desire to see our splendid age again

Sometime I dare to reverse entire water of Ar* in vain

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

Oh! mighty Ra** please help to rewind the time ,

Ar! my holy water, The waters of our time..

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

Distressed and deserted by all, bless me Hapi***,

Come back from Sudan, Forgive me, oh! Ibis#,

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

My dearest body, sleep quite ! don't move!

Today someone listens, my story don't move!!

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

The biggest punishment is to see decay

of one's motherland every day by day

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

Upon whom my soul rotates, like a moon

Oh! Sailor! the "boat"**** is waiting someone

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

Their heaven vouchsafed me tortures like a hell

The punishment is now over, make boat ready to sail

Wake up, oh stranger!.....I am here to help you!!

* Ancient Egyptian name of Nile

** Powerful Sun God

***Nile God

**** Egyptian believe they could make journey to the Sun God on the Special boat.

# The ibis represented the god Thoth, god of wisdom, knowledge. it is now extinct throughout Egypt because of gradual acidification through swamp drainage and land reclamation. Still found in Sudan.

Translated in Nepali:

जाग न बटुवा, नील को स्वागत छ

जाग न बटुवा, तिम्लाई मेरो साथ् छ

बरदान बरुणकी नील, तर छक्क पर्या छु

सबै परिबर्तन भए, तर तिमि उस्तै छौ